Two-unit welting



Jan, 14, 1947. w. c. VIZARD 3 2,414,249,

TWO-UNIT WELTING Filed NOV. 29, 1945 Patented Jan. 14, 1947 UNITEDSTATES PATENT OFFICE 2,414,249 TWO-UNIT WELTING William C. Vizard;Brockton, Mass.,- assignor to Barbour Welting C co -part'nership ompany,Brockt'on, Mass, 21;

Application November 29, 1945', Serial No. 631,576.

5 Claims.

ordinary Goodyear-weltingi.

As the shoe manufacturer purchases welting according to the requiredwidth of the resultant Welt extension or deck and not according to. theoverall width of the welt, it

a closer fitting, non-grinning welt capable of holding the shoe uppermproper ing the formation of a. gutter between upper and welt.

of the plied welt,

age for theinseam stitchi inchwwide is divided to form base unit is 5%The two units are cemented together as shown in Fig. 2 with the coverflap adhesively secured to the wall I3'and. to the exposed surfaces of.the

Fig. 3 shows a variation in the welt of Fig. 2, producing a fullhalf-inch deck and a base inch wide, made from the fillet of Fig. 1 byso the base cut that the bottom of the top width of inch, and the bottomof the base unit 22 is inch wide.

' Figs. and 6, a deck inch wideand a full half inch base is producedfrom a fillet inch wide by making a diagonal cut inch from the lefthandedge of the fillet, as at 23 a lateral cut 24 terminating 1% and a shortvertical cut to the form units 25 and 26. Topunit 25 has I dercut fleshwall at 2'3, and a relatively narrow grain lip 21; and base unit 23 hasa sloping inseam flange 28, and a narrow grain platform 29. The latteris preferably buffed or skived, before the units are cemented togetherunder molding pressure, as in Fig. 6. As before, the cover flap 21 iscemented to the undercut flesh wall and over the sloping surface of theinseam flange.

In the remaining modifications a wider fillet (approximately one inch)is employed to furnish a welt having a full half-inch deck and arelatively wide base, and the grain lip of the top unit is cemented toan undercut wall and onto the flat top surface of aninseam flange of thebase unit, but does not extend over the edge to the bottom of the baseunit. These variations accordingly do not afford the manufacturingeconomies of the previous examples, but provide a sturdier constructionfor heavier shoes.

The form shown in Figs. 7 and 8 provides an flange and is particularlyad- 'with receding toes, for the inseam flange may be trimmed flush,without severing the inseam stitch which passes through the crease atthe bottom of the receding shoulder. The fillet is cut substantially asshown in-Fig. 5, to provide base unit 32, but the base unit is invertedso that the fiat flesh by furnishing which is covered by the grain lip35 of the top unit. The inseam groove 36 is located at the angle betweenthe platform and the body of the inverted base unit, and the inseamstitch is buried in this groove, remote from the bottom of the welt andout of the way of the trimmer which guides on said bottom.

In Figs. 9 and 10, the fillet isalso divided substantially as shown inFig. 5, b curled upwardly where it presses grain surface at 31. Thesurface of the grain platform is skived off as indicated at 38 toprovide a flesh surface for firm adhesion of top unit 39 to base unit4!).

Other variations of the methods and resulting products hereinillustrated and described may be practiced while preserving the featureswhich contribute to the ease or economy of manufacturing two-unitwaiting, or to the durable shape and lasting appearance of shoes madewith such 'welting. i

I claim:

1. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing agrain leather fillet by forming an inclined cut in the flesh body of'the fillet and a lateral cut adjacent its grain surface, the anglebetween said cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having agrain deck, an undercut flesh wall and ing from the top of said wall,and a base umt face, the angle between said cuts a grain lipprojecthaving a marginal flange of less thickness than the body of saidunit, cementing the top unit to the base unit, and cementing said grainlip to said wall and to the top of said marginal flange as a cover flaptherefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulder and an inseam flangebelow said shoulder.

2. A method of making which consists grain leather fillet by forming aninclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateral cut adjacentits grain surtwo-unit welting,

thereby to provide a top unit having a grain deck, an undercut fleshwall and a grain lip projecting from the top of said wall, having amarginal flange of the body of said unit, cementing the top unit to thebase unit, and cementing said grain lip to said'wall and to the top andouter edge of said marginal flange as a cover flap therefor, therebyforming a receding welt shoulder and a'two-ply inseam flange below saidshoulder.

3. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing agrain leather fillet by forming a short vertical cut in the base of thefillet, an inclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateralout adjacent its grain surface, the angle between said inclined andlateral cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having a graindeck, an undercut flesh wall and a grain lip projecting from the top ofsaid wall, and a base unit having a beveled marginal flange, cementingthe top unit to the base unit, and

' lip to said wall and to the therefor, thereby forming a receding weltshoulder and an inseam flange below said shoulder.

l. A method of making two-unit welting, which'consists in dividing agrain leather fillet by forming a short vertical cut in the base of thefillet, an inclined cut in the flesh body of the fillet and a lateralcut inclining to its grain surface at the edge of the fillet, the anglebetween said lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby a top unit having agrain deck,

to provide dercut flesh wall and a grain lip pro the top of said wall,and a base unit having a beveled marginal flange, cementing the top unitto 'the base unit, grain lip to said wall and to the top and outer edgeof said flange as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding weltshoulder and a two-ply inseam flange below said shoulder.

5. A method of making two-unit welting, which consists in dividing agrain leather fillet by forming an inclined cut in the lateral cutadjacent its grain surface, and a vertical cut through the grain surfacere-' mote from the edges of the fillet, the angle between said inclinedand lateral cuts being obtuse, thereby to provide a top unit having agrain deck, and undercut flesh wall and a grain lip projecting from thetop of said wall, and a base unit having a marginal flange of lessthickness than the body of said unit, inverting the 'base unit,cementing the top and cementing said grain lip to said wall the top of 7base as a cover flap therefor, thereby forming a receding welt shoulderand an inseam flange below said shoulder, the bottom of the flange beingdisposed in a plane appreciably above the plane of the bottom of saidbase unit.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

being obtuse,

the marginal flange of the inverted

